In Short:
Blackwork is a style of embroidery characterized by intricate single-color designs. Often used to decorate clothing, blackwork was so named as it typically displayed black silk on white linen or cotton, although occasionally metallic threads accented designs. This elaborate monochromatic needlework often consisted of geometric patterns and floral motifs and was frequently seen on cuffs, collars and sleeves in the Tudor period, during which its popularity peaked. Known as Tudor blackwork as well as blackwork embroidery, you may also see the art referred to as Spanish blackwork, as the style remains closely tied to Catherine of Aragon.
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Tudor blackwork was considered a fashionable embellishment for garments in the 15th and 16th centuries with it being distinctly popular during the reign of King Henry VIII and Elizabeth I in England. First historically linked with Catherine of Aragon, blackwork embroidery adorned both royal household linens in addition to clothing. These articles of clothing included such items as the neckerchiefs worn by Henry VIII, sleeves worn by Jane Seymour and several panels for Queen Elizabeth’s kirtles.
Early blackwork was often stitched as counted threadwork on a plain weave fabric so that the threads of the fabric could be used as a grid. The most common stitch in blackwork was the Holbein stitch or double running stitch. The Holbein stitch makes the embroidered pattern reversible (giving the same appearance from either side of the fabric) by producing a line that is identical on both sides of the cloth.
Named so after Hans Holbein the Younger, this stitch was often depicted in his paintings, such as this portrait of Jane Seymour. The reversibility of the design made it ideal for cloth items on which either side might be seen, such as cuffs and collars.
Blackwork was usually worked in a single color, most often black, but occasionally featured other colors. Another noteworthy example is the use of monochromatic red thread, sometimes referred to as scarletwork. The designs were typically seen on clothing in the Tudor period, with blackwork on shirts, smocks, sleeves, caps and coifs.
Origins of Tudor Blackwork Embroidery
The true origins of blackwork embroidery are somewhat contested. Although largely believed to have been introduced to England by King Henry VIII’s first wife, Catherine of Aragon, this has never been conclusively proven.
Popular history has it that Catherine of Aragon brought blackwork garments with her from Spain when she first journeyed to England to marry the son of King Henry VII. The youngest daughter of King Ferdinand of Aragon and Queen Isabella, Catherine of Aragon was born in 1485 and came to England at 15 to wed the first son of King Henry VII, Arthur. Shortly after their union, Arthur died of an unknown illness and some years later, Catherine would marry Arthur's brother, the much more renowned King Henry VIII.
While techniques that could be called blackwork appeared in Spanish embroidery before 1501, they can also be found in England and many other countries before Catherine of Aragon’s time.
Geoffrey Chaucer wrote in the 14th century of a blackwork collar embroidered on both sides in The Canterbury Tales, which sounds startlingly similar to blackwork embroidery that employed the Holbein stitch. Chaucer described the garb of the miller’s wife in The Miller’s Tale:
“White was her smock, and embroidered all in front
And also behind, around her collar,
With coal-black silk, within and also without.”
Although it is unclear if this clothing that Chaucer spoke of featured the same embroidery that came to be known as Tudor blackwork in the 16th century, it is quite possible that the fashion existed many years before Catherine of Aragon ever stepped foot in England.
New research has supported alternate possibilities for the origin of this needlework. Some evidence has supported that Morocco may have been the original birthplace of this particular embroidery style. Other research has purported that the origins of blackwork embroidery may have links to design influences from Egypt or Moorish influences in Spain and Italy.
Either way, it is indisputable that there is a strong historical association between Catherine of Aragon and blackwork embroidery which led to the term Spanish work becoming synonymous with the design. Even if this style of needlework predated her bringing it to England, she undoubtedly popularized it during her lengthy reign as King Henry VIII’s wife of 24 years.
Blackwork began to decline in popularity towards the end of the 16th century and the beginning of the 17th century, as fashions shifted toward more brightly colored apparel, smooth silk and lace.
Technique, Patterns and Motifs
Regarding technique, blackwork can be worked as a counted thread technique or incorporate freeform embroidery. In the modern method of blackwork embroidery, a larger stitch is often worked first to define the shape of the pattern, and the filling stitches are worked in secondarily to give definition to the larger shapes. These intricate repeating patterns often fill the larger shapes, lending them a lace-like ornateness.
During the medieval period, English embroidery delighted in the realistic representations of flora and fauna. Blackwork evokes similar themes, with many designs involving fruit and curling floral patterns with detailed petals and leaves.
The English embroiderers who crafted these patterns worked on the finest Flemish linen (lawne) with black silk. A beautiful pattern circa 1590 bought by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, shows an arrangement of Tudor roses, pomegranates and rose hips filled with various intricate details. Highlights of gilded silver-wrapped silk floss called Gold of Venice accent portions of the design.
Another design circa 1580 - 1620 features floral motifs. This blackwork on white linen showcases a repeated pattern of honeysuckle, borage, pansies and grapes. The silk thread includes buttonhole, outline, cross and herringbone stitches in its design.
Yet another example of fine blackwork detailed by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust exhibits a beautiful blackwork sample. The intricate design decorates a coif—a bonnet-style cap—in which black-threaded petals and leaves are interspersed with silver and gilt thread. The design is a magnificent example of blackwork from the early 1600s.
The cap parades an assortment of fruits and flowers: columbine, pea, foxglove, rosehips, wild strawberries and hazelnuts. Likely the work of a noblewoman or another female member of the wealthy merchant classes, a love of the natural world emanates from this elaborate design.
Such beautiful blackwork designs are exceedingly rare. Not many examples of blackwork embroidery exist in good condition today as the black English embroidery thread of which they were made was often fixed with iron. After years of oxidation, the silk thread disintegrates. Some Spanish designs appear to have contained less iron and as such are better preserved.
A New Context: Modern Blackwork Embroidery and Cultural Revival
Blackwork embroidery has experienced a modest resurgence in the modern era, although the term is now used more loosely. Today, blackwork embroidery is defined more by its design than its color work. While traditional blackwork once referred to patterns in black thread stitched onto white linen, many now use the term to refer to the delicate geometric designs featuring repeating floral, star and lattice patterns to fill larger shapes, yet have expanded the term to include more colors.
Contemporary blackwork embroidery still uses the Holbein stitch (double running stitch) along with the back stitch to give designs sharp, crisp lines. Other stitches that may be included are the stem stitch, chain stitch and buttonhole stitch as well as cross-stitch.
Modern embroiderers of blackwork tend to work on even-weave cloth like linen, cotton or Aida cloth. For more detailed blackwork, higher thread count fabrics work particularly well. For more bold patterns, fabrics with a lower thread count can be utilized.
Instead of black silk thread, more options are available today. Current designs may employ twisted, silk or cotton embroidery floss, varying the weight by adding or removing strands.
As far as needles, blackwork is usually undertaken with a blunt-tipped tapestry needle rather than a sharp-tipped embroidery needle. This makes it easier to work the back stitch or double running stitch into the holes of the fabric without splitting the stitches or fabric threads.
Modern Blackwork Image: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:For_The_Love_Of_Blackwork_Embroidery.jpg
Contemporary examples of blackwork are stunning, with the intricate patterns used not just as filling but occasionally as shading. Beautiful, naturalistic renditions of animals, people and dizzyingly complex geometric designs have been displayed in this intricate threadwork, with several courses continuing to be taught on the subject.
Written by Molly E. Sandwell
Molly E. Sandwell is a freelance writer based in Southern California who carries a lifelong passion for art and art history. A former visual artist, she holds a deep respect for the rich and varied artistic expressions around the globe. Follow her at @mollyesandwell.